More about rebuilding the gearbox on New Holland 358 mixer-grinder

For some strange reason I did not publish my post about rebuilding the gearbox on my New Holland 358. It was pretty straight forward rebuild as I did have a New Holland Service manual.

There were two difficult parts. Assembling and setting the preload on the input shaft bearings was a pain. Hint- don't bend the cotter pin over the end of the shaft... Removing the drive block was a bugger.

To set up the input shaft bearings you have to install the bearing race on the input end of the shaft first. Make sure you put the cup in the correct way because you are going to next install the race, then a spacer, then the second race, then the second cup. You line this all up perfectly and set the preload like you do a wheel bearing, but don't install the cotter pin. Because then it all slides into the gearbox and you have to remove the nut and install the bevel gear, recheck the preload but don't bend the cotter pin over the end of the shaft because when you adjust the backlash on the big pinion gear, the cotter pin will hit the gear or the funny little oil splasher thing that I have no idea if I installed correctly. The gear clearance is set by sliding that bearing/spacer assembly in the gear case and then locked in with a set screw. Seems a bit on the hokey side but what do I know? It was so far out of adjustment when I took it apart I suspect it is a problem area.

The input shaft pinion clearance is set by knocking the bearing assembly into the case until you have correct backlash between small and big pinion. Then you tighten the set screw on top. This may or may not work...

The drive block was rust welded to the output shaft. I heated it red hot and let it cool about five times. I applied ATF and acetone, finally I used some 100 year old Kroil  that I got from MuddyValley and let that soak over night. Next morning it had penetrated the splines. I put it in the press and the shaft popped out.

If you look closely you can see a faint red glow. It took a few heat cycles and every type of penetrating oil on the farm to break it loose. Also, a big press. Kroil actually soaked all the way down the splines.

I thought the seal kit meant it came with a seal. It is just a $150 shield. I used it instead of returning it as the enter hole was actually smaller on the new part. Plus it was shiny.

You can see the shield in place. It protect the seal on the output shaft.

It held up for 1800lbs of oat/alfalfa pellets of which most are sold so I consider this repair a success

Your typical day

It was one of those days.
I had to grind some feed. I got the ratios wrong. Neighbor gave me some wheat. It had large rocks in it. The rocks jammed up the auger on the power bin.
I killed the PTO in my free International tractor.
The White 2-135 is apart still.
I used the M670 super which has more HP than the IH but I am scared I will kill it as well and be tractorless.
After about the fifth auger jam I commenced to swear.
My wife appeared with coffee and tried to help.
She then left in not as good a mood as when she arrived.
I finished after dark.
She made the mistake of asking how my day went. I went on a rant.
I later over heard my daughter asking if I was going to get a new job.
Earlier today I discussed planting with a competitor. (Sort of a competitor he has a drill and charges to plant)
He makes people prove it was his fault before he replants or gives money back on failed plantings.
I generally tell people I will replant for a reduced rate or not charge them or just tell them to pay me what they feel like paying me. Most of the time if I replant I just charge a reduced rate whether it is my fault or not. Perhaps this is a stupid thing to do.
However I really mostly plant for people I am friends with. Having a Great Plains drill and a White tractor keeps the tight-arsed people away. They don't hire me.
In other news,
Today there was snow.
I figured out how to get my tuners to work. You take that FM antenna you bought at Radio Shack and toss it in the trash can. Then you get a chunk of wire 59.6 inches long and connect it to the 300 ohm terminals on the back of your receiver. Or 53.4 inches for 90.7 FM.
I found the bare copper wire a bit ugly and unwieldy (of course I got it tweeker style-by burning the electrical insulation off some old house wiring and so it was a bit scorched) so I wrapped it around a hollow piece of some sort of insulating material I found in the shop. Then, contradicting how I thought it all should work, I ran an insulated wire through the center of the tube and connected it to the far end of coiled copper wire. I hooked one end of the copper and then insulated lead to the 300 ohm connectors on the back of the receiver and I got even better FM. It is a little more directional than just the plain loop.
Then I realized I had a lot more to do than screw around with tuners and I went back to work.
If someone would just give me a million dollars I would say thank you.

Forget Lego Trains I need a flatbelt

I busted the belt for my hammermill! Where do I find a six or eight inch endless flatbelt that is 20 to 40 feet long? Any of you folks have a flatbelt setting in your barn?