More about rebuilding the gearbox on New Holland 358 mixer-grinder

For some strange reason I did not publish my post about rebuilding the gearbox on my New Holland 358. It was pretty straight forward rebuild as I did have a New Holland Service manual.

There were two difficult parts. Assembling and setting the preload on the input shaft bearings was a pain. Hint- don't bend the cotter pin over the end of the shaft... Removing the drive block was a bugger.

To set up the input shaft bearings you have to install the bearing race on the input end of the shaft first. Make sure you put the cup in the correct way because you are going to next install the race, then a spacer, then the second race, then the second cup. You line this all up perfectly and set the preload like you do a wheel bearing, but don't install the cotter pin. Because then it all slides into the gearbox and you have to remove the nut and install the bevel gear, recheck the preload but don't bend the cotter pin over the end of the shaft because when you adjust the backlash on the big pinion gear, the cotter pin will hit the gear or the funny little oil splasher thing that I have no idea if I installed correctly. The gear clearance is set by sliding that bearing/spacer assembly in the gear case and then locked in with a set screw. Seems a bit on the hokey side but what do I know? It was so far out of adjustment when I took it apart I suspect it is a problem area.

The input shaft pinion clearance is set by knocking the bearing assembly into the case until you have correct backlash between small and big pinion. Then you tighten the set screw on top. This may or may not work...

The drive block was rust welded to the output shaft. I heated it red hot and let it cool about five times. I applied ATF and acetone, finally I used some 100 year old Kroil  that I got from MuddyValley and let that soak over night. Next morning it had penetrated the splines. I put it in the press and the shaft popped out.

If you look closely you can see a faint red glow. It took a few heat cycles and every type of penetrating oil on the farm to break it loose. Also, a big press. Kroil actually soaked all the way down the splines.

I thought the seal kit meant it came with a seal. It is just a $150 shield. I used it instead of returning it as the enter hole was actually smaller on the new part. Plus it was shiny.

You can see the shield in place. It protect the seal on the output shaft.

It held up for 1800lbs of oat/alfalfa pellets of which most are sold so I consider this repair a success

I am back in the feed grinding business! The New Holland 358 is back together and has to come apart again...

When I was a kid, our Moline M670 Super was a new tractor. 1967 was not that long ago. It is a little hard to realize that my 1980's New Holland 358 Mixer-Grinder can't be that old. I mean didn't Sperry-Rand just sell New Holland to Ford? Or was it Fiat? All these recent changes in farm equipment manufacture ownership has got me mixed up. If only New Idea still owned White.

But, I digress...

I have the 358 back together. 

If you can. remember about ten days ago I pulled the gearbox apart as it started running just a little bit hot. Click here to timetravel to this event. I also talked about the process in this post. I was rebuilding the gearbox then.

Portrait of the Artist as an Old man..

Of course I have to take it apart again. 

After I make a ton of feed. I actually have an order for oat/alfalfa pellets. 

The coupler between the driveline and gearbox is split through the set screw hole. Did not see that until I was installing the gearbox. 

I wish I would have seen this was cracked ten days ago when I was ordering parts. But! another order from ABC Groff  might get me another refrigerator magnet and a Pen! I wonder how much I have to buy to get a hat? Oh man, a nice winter baseball hat. I do need one of those.

Gearbox installation is actually very straight forward. You lift the gearbox up with a floor jack, turn it 90 degrees to clear the frame, turn it back, install the four nuts holding it on. Don't forget the one bolt has a shim, and knock the coupler back on the shaft till the drive sprocket aligns for the unloading auger. Tighten the set screw till the collar splits and then back off half a turn to close the gap. I figure the locktite will hold it for a while.

The gearbox was not hard to install. You do need to block the mixing auger so it is centered. It is not real hard to move around from underneath but its all a bit awkward on your back on the gravel. I filled the gearbox and plugged the fill hole before installation. There is a filler pipe that you install later.

I ordered the Sprocket/coupler from A.B.C Groff in Pennsylvania.

It is New Holland Part Number 714700

It looks like I got their last one! Here is their info. Seems like a good place to do business with. 

Email parts@abcgroffinc.com or Call 717-354-8000

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Supplying parts...not empty wallets!

GET IT FIXED! DEERE & NEW HOLLAND AFTERMARKET PARTS!